A wide-leg pant with no side seam is an easy garment to sew! Add extra comfort with an elastic waist and your favorite fabric. Shop this pattern here --- http://craftsy.me/1UyaQur
Get this linen fabric --- http://craftsy.me/1Yutghc
Want to give sewing jeans a try? --- http://craftsy.me/21oPksu
Or, get a simple pj pant tutorial --- http://craftsy.me/21oOo7v
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In this video
Taper and Wide Leg Pant pattern from Christine Jonson Patterns
These pants are super-easy because there's only one pattern piece to work with! Take a look at the grainline on the pattern piece, I've lined this up with the grainline on the fabric - the grainline is typically parallel to the selvage. This will mean the drape of your pants will look its best.
Here's the pattern piece all cut out with the notches and hem markings transferred. These will help us match the pieces up later on.
You can see on the pattern that this is the inseam, and there is no outside leg seam.
Something to remember - if you're using a woven fabric that has no stretch like I am, choose a waist size that's large enough to get over your hips otherwise it's going to be a real struggle to pull them on!
We're going to start with the inseam. With right sides of the fabric together, line up the notches and pin the front leg to the back leg.
Line up the seam allowance with the 5/8” marking, back stitch and stitch all the way from the crotch to the hem. I'm using a contrasting thread, but you'd choose a matching color.
Finish the seam allowances: I am going to trim the seam allowances with pinking sheers. You could use an overlock stitch, zigzag stitch, or a serger. Whatever you prefer.
Look for the triple notches on the crotch seam - this is the back of the pants. Press the seam allowance in this direction.
OK - one leg down - one to go! Just follow the same steps again for the second leg. Once you've done that, you'll join the two legs together at the crotch seam.
Have one pant leg with the wrong side facing out in one pant leg with the right side facing out. Insert the leg with the right side facing out into this pant leg - line up both inseams and pin. You can see both of these sides are wrong sides now.
Line up the notches - one notch refers to the front of the pant, place a pin and these triple notches refer to the back. Pin all the way round this crotch seam. Next, you'll stitch along this entire crotch curve.
Starting at the top edge, back stitch once or twice and stitch all the way around. When you get to the inseam make sure both the seam allowances are facing the back of the pant legs.
"Again, you’ll finish the seam edge just like before and then press the crotch seam to one side. /
A sleeve board or a full size ironing board is perfect for this job."
attach the elastic to the waist line.
Start by measuring the elastic around your waistline to determine how tight you want the elastic.
Cross the elastic pieces, lining up the marking and zigzag stitch back and forth.
Now with fabric marker make marks on the elastic
Line the elastic up along the wrong side of the fabric, matching up the center front seam with the center front marking on the elastic and the center back marking with the center back of the pants.
Stretch the elastic and add a few pins - this will help to ease the elastic in evenly all the way around the waist
Stitch the elastic to the fabric with a zigzag stitch of 1.4 length and 3.5 wide. As you do this, make sure to stretch the elastic to match the length of the fabric.
Finish your edge and then turn under the elastic toward the wrong side of the fabric. Pin at the center back seam and the center front - and lets just add one pin to each of the side seams
Line up the edge of the presser foot with the edge of the elastic and topstitch the bottom edge of the elastic to the fabric with a slightly bigger zigzag of 1.8 long and 4.5 wide. Make sure the elastic butts up to the fold and stretch the elastic to match the length of the fabric.
Stitch over the first stitch just a little and backstitch - and the waist is finished.
The final step is hemming your pants
At the machine check to make sure your needle will just catch the folded hem allowance edge. On the right side of the fabric, topstitch the hem in place with a straight stitch of 3.5. To keep that line of stitching straight use the guidelines on your throat plate.
Give the hem one more pressing and the pants are finished! You have made a great pair of pants in a couple of hours!
You are TRULY amazing. So well explained. You made it so easy. Joining the two legs was great. Sometimes I end up with one leg at least one inch shorter than the other. Then i wear it as a pyjama only my bed can see. A very humble pair of casual pants with an elastic waistband just what i was looking for. You are so beautiful and your smile is gorgeous.
Thanks for taking so much of your time to make this video and posting it on YouTube. Thanks for sharing and caring. 😀🍸🍸🍸👍👍👍🌹🌹🌹💕
Angela..I went to the link listed for the pattern, but was told if it is not associated with a class then they could not help me...The pattern was sold out, so I did a live chat hoping to get info on it.Thanks
When I make simple, casual pants like these, it's easier for me to hem them working flat most of the way, prior to sewing the inseams, leaving just about an inch or so un-hemmed on either side of the seam-lines. Then after sewing the inseams, I finish the hems. It's faster for me, and I get neater hems that way.
But there is an even more important step I always do, that of reinforcing the crotch seams to prevent embarrassing splits. It is done by first pressing the crotch seam allowances all to one side in front, then to the opposite side in back for balance (clipping the seam allowances where necessary, to make them lie flat); then top-stitching the entire crotch seam as close to the seam 'ditches' as I can get it -- always making sure to anchor the outer fabric to the seam allowances underneath. This is a vital step for me, since I live in a hot climate and make most of my pants out of super-lightweight fabrics. It's good for work pants, too.
That way, the top stitching sits on one side of the seam in front, and on the other side in back, and from the perspective of an observer, appears to be on the same side, whether seen from front or back. I like how that works out.
I work neatly, so my top-stitching very close to crotch seams is barely noticeable; and besides, this particularly basic (i.e. not tailored) type of trousers are something I prefer to wear with longer tunics anyway, so the crotch and hip area is usually covered up with another layer of fabric. And best of all: I can relax, knowing that under normal circumstances the seams will hold securely.
Elizabeth A, how should it have been better, less messy? I really want to understood and make it as neat as possible. The fact you can see a raw edge on the inside is kind of messy looking to start with...
This is the first of a video instruction that I've watched of yours. Thank you for your clear instructions and the video is very clear as well. As far as FREE videos go, this is amazing. I can't wait to check out the others.
Cuando visualices el vídeo, lleva el ratón al cuadrante inferior derecho, aparecerá el símbolo de una rueda dentada que es la configuración. Pincha y veras varios apartados, entre ellos " subtítulos", clica y te aparecerá entre las opciones "traducción automática", elige el idioma y listo. Espero que te sirva.
Well the last time we had this conversation you said the studio did not supply an extension table or a way to recess the machine into a cabinet for you.
I did not realize everything you have filmed that has been out there all these years was all filmed on the same day in the same studio for different companies.